In the US, the Black wire is the “Hot” lead and the return is the White wire. If you happen to have a newer power cord wired to an Asian or European wiring standard, double check the cord leads to be sure they correspond to the correct plug prongs, but most of those types will use the Brown wire for “hot” and the Blue wire for “Return” with the green wire with yellow stripe as the ground wire. This is a fairly general schematic as far as applications go. The parts saw was promptly pulled apart and that switch removed and once checked- it was revealed it too had issues, and was the most probable reason the donor saw was scrapped. Once the schematic was finished, it was simple matter of checking with an Ohmmeter the various potential culprits, which actually turned out to be the first item I checked- the switch. The metal bracket under one of the thermal reset screws just retains the magnetic starter in place Wiring Schematic for Craftsman Saws since the 1960’s. That aluminum plate itself- which once removed revealed decades of accumulated sawdust and essentially the compact assembly of the recess for the switch, the motor start capacitor, the thermal motor fuse/reset switch and the magnetic starter. Slipping the two wires off of the switch freed the plate which was set aside for the moment as some cursory checks and a wiring diagram were written down. The switch will not come out unless the yellow safety tab is removed. The aluminum plat is what the switch itself attaches to with 2 philips screws of about a #6 size. The screws to remove the panel are circled in red.Īfter some initial disassembly to get at the wiring for checks, which entailed removing 8 Phillips head screws that held the aluminum plate (as well as the sheet metal end of the saw to the rest of the base). The 2 screws circled in blue hold the switch.
The two screws holding the protractor do not need removal as they only have a quick nut behind them and do not secure the panel in any way, so they can be left alone. The image shows the location of the 6 screws on the edges circled in red that retain the aluminum panel, there may be one or two others on that panel as the saws did have some variability. And having a decent table saw you can move around is almost an essential for a home renovation as well as for other projects. The Sears saw got the nod because I located a scrap Sears 10 inch saw that had a different top on it, but just happened to be the same motor and arbor mechanism. This being a tight budget situation required some thought on the matter as to which one to repair first.
So I swapped a Delta “Super 10” Saw onto the base and ran that one for a while, until the motor capacitors failed. A While back, my old Sears 10 inch Table saw “gave up the ghost”, it simply stopped and flipping the switch back and forth a number of times did not get any noise from the motor.